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TIPS OF THE WEEK 
by Vicki Peters
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ACRYLIC APPLICATION CHALLENGES 
Tip of the week #43

This tip of the week is about controlling your acrylic application so you can create better nails, faster. I get more requests on this subject; teach it in every private training as well as classes than any other technique. Below is a typical e mail: 

My name is Maria, I got my nail license last year. I feel like during school I didn't learn how to work the acrylic good enough to make a decent full set of nails. I feel like I wasted my time and money in just learning manicures and pedicures. I am really depressed because I can't even do something that I really love to do.
I'm ready to do nails but I can't work anywhere because I can't do acrylic…..

This e mail is so typical. No matter how seasoned you are controlling your acrylic it is a challenge and can take years to master it. Application techniques and liquid to powder control is usually not taught in manicuring school so unfortunately were on our own once were become a working tech to figure it out. Nothing is more frustrating than watching another tech make it look so simple, it is. However, getting there is not. Let me see if I can help. 

The right brush can make a difference. Make sure you use the recommended brush with the product you use to start with. The manufacturers have worked out the proper liquid to powder ratio with their brush. Later if you master your liquid to powder ratio try switching back to your favorite brush and adjust your ratio if needed. 

Next understand that we all work differently and that can throw off the suggested liquid to powder ratio the manufacturer suggests, so it's NOT an exact science. 
We all use different size dappen dishes and fill them all differently, some use more liquid some use less. So that makes a difference when we dip our brushes into the liquid. You also want to make sure your working in a dappen dish that does not slide across your table as you work so you get a good "wipe" on the inside of the dappen dish so you know exactly how much liquid you have in your brush before you pick up a ball of product. So start by saturating your brush then wiping it completely out before re-dipping in to the liquid again to get the liquid you want. 

So that leads me to how you pick up your product. With the right amount of liquid in your brush you must learn how to pick up a ball of product with total control. You can either swirl the tip and male a ball or press into the powder and build the product up on the underside of the brush. The key is not to get the powder all in the bristles so you're able to drop the ball onto the nail and have the brush basically clean. 

After you drop the product on to the nail get into the habit of wiping your brush on a clean spot on your paper table towel. Do this without wiping all the liquid out and remove any product that may be on the tip of the brush. If you need to re-dip your brush into the liquid and wipe out the excess liquid. The mission here is to bring your brush back to perfect working order not getting more liquid. Do this quickly because your product is starting to set up. 

While you're doing that the product you just deposited on the nail has spread and set up a bit. Having the right liquid to powder ratio will allow your product to spread and set up perfectly. If you're too wet it will run and if too dry you won't be able to move it now. And that's the lesson. Most deposit the product on the nail and immediately start playing with it making a sticky mess. By allowing it to set a bit while you wipe your brush will let you press it into place with more control. Pay attention to the time it takes to set up while you do this. 

See most inexperienced techs have no control of where the product is going and how fast or slow it's going to set up. We need to learn our product and understand how to work it in order to have control. 

Not all products are the same and you need to learn the difference. Changing products to find what works best may not be the solution. If you have no control with the product you work with follow my instructions until you do have control, then try a different product with the control you have practiced. Its you - not the product. 

Practice making balls on tinfoil or a tip glued to a dowel when you have some spare time at the salon. Focus on making dry balls and when you have conquered that move onto medium balls then wetter ones. This will help you focus on your technique. 

Its all about control and practice. 

DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an 
endorsement of any kind.

Vicki Peters 
"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"
Visit my new web site: http://vickipeters.com 

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