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TIPS OF THE WEEK 
by Vicki Peters
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TIP OF THE WEEK #40 Filing and Shaping 
With Tanis Darling & Vicki Peters

This is Tanis Darling's method of filing with gels.
Below you will find my filing system for acrylics and other artificial nails.

Filing and Shaping by Tanis Darling

It is difficult to apply your product to a perfect form. There for there is always some shaping and filing to be done. Over filing the nails is a risk in this procedure and leads to enhancement breakdown. The more experienced you become in product application the less filing and shaping you will be required to perform.

The most efficient way to shape and file an enhancement is to stick with a methodology. A pattern that once learned will enable you to file all ten nails in the same shape and length time after time. Bringing along with it the ability to speed up your service time.

1. Perimeter filing:

• -The length and shape of your clients nails are determined at this point by discussing with your client her lifestyle, needs and wants.
• -The sides of the nail is the foundation of the nails strength. Do NOT over file this area, as it will cause breakage. Hold your nail file straight along the nail wall and file into shape. Using a gentle back and forth motion with good pressure until the extension is even with the nail wall. -File the extension of free edge to the chosen shape and length.

2. Body of the Nail

• - The body of the nail is located in the middle third of the nail from cuticle to free edge (see diagram. Zone 2a, 2b, 2c) Work in a flowing motion with even pressure, start at a slight angle at the cuticle with your file and bring your file flat to the surface of the enhancement in the middle area and then rock to the opposite slight angle to bevel down the free edge. (rocking side to side over the nail to ensure the middle third of the nail is surface filed)

3. Cuticle Area

• -The cuticle area has only 2 layers of gel and is therefore very thin, depending on placement of product you may use a buffing block to buff the surface to remove shine and soften the ledge of where the product begins. If your application is a little thick then use a 180 or 240 grit file to lightly file away the excess gel blending the area with the body of the nail

4. Free Edge and Grooves

• -Look down the barrel of the nail with one hand behind the clients nail in order to SEE where you need to file. Then in a diagonal filing motion and a light pressure stroke to the center of the nail. Ensure that you don't leave any high points in zone c and that the free edge is a uniform thickness across the entire C Curve.

5. Sidewalls

• -The sidewall should be the only shiny part left on the nail at this point. If placement has been correct you should be able to use a buffing block from side to side removing the shine and blending to the rest of the enhancement. If not then use a 180 or 240 grit file and light strokes to blend.

Filing and Shaping by Vicki Peters

Here is my filing system. I agree with Tanis that you must devise a system to be more efficient with your time management and effectiveness. This is just my way (on acrylics) you need to figure out your way.

FILES

I like to use a 100/180 grit 1" by 7" square files or 150 grit. Some of my favorite large files taper on the tip to a round point and are fatter in the center. I go back and forth between the two. The reason is that I get more contact on the nail so I file more effectively and most, not all of the big files I use don't bend, which I also like. I feel for me anyway files that bend take me longer but on the other hand I want my buffers bendable so they "hug" the nail as they smooth. Depending on how much filing I have to do is whether I start with 100 or 150. I never use a 180 for two reasons, my application is never that perfect and I don't get enough file power to start with a 180.

HERE IS MY FILING PATTERN:

Understand that I always build my nails square even though I am going to file them round. This helps me build the nail straight.

With a 100 or 150 file:

1. Shorten the tip or shape the ends. Hold the file flat to the nail for a straight edge. Do not flip the file with your wrist - you will not have a flat edge.
2. File the left side of the nail holding the file straight not at an angle (it will change the shape of the tip.
3. File the right side of the nail the same way holding the file straight. (So now you have filed all three side of the parameter.)
4. Now turn the nail so you can look at the profile of the left side of the nail. With your file tucked into the nail groove while making contact on the entire underside of the nail, file it so the nail is straight out of the sidewalls.
5. Do the same on the right underside. Some techs try to file holding the file at an angle to achieve the above steps such as # 2 and #5. This cannot be done effectively and needs to be a 2 steps process.
6. Now file the topside from the cuticle area to the tip, but don't file the cuticle area. Your file should have contact on the lower 1/2 or 3/4 of the nail. (Look at it from the profile as you file to see your contact area.) File back and forth from north to south.
7. Now go around the cuticle area.
8. Now do these steps on the remaining nails.
9. Remove the dust.
10. Repeat the same steps with a 180 grit file if you feel you should do more refining.
11. Remove the dust in between switching files.
12. Use a white block on all ten nails, including the sides and underneath edges.
13. With the softer side of a white block or something comparable with oil, buff again.
14. Finish with polish or high shine the nails.

GENERAL

1. If I use a 150 I sometime eliminate the use of the 180 but there is more buffing to be done.
2. Sometimes I like to use the 100 first on all ten nails and go back over with a 180 doing the exact same steps. It lets me view the nail again, another reason I choose to do one step on all 10 nails instead of doing all steps completing the nail - you never get to go back and see what you missed.
3. Removing the grit on the nails in between filing with help because your not scratching in left over coarser grit left behind with a finer file.
4. I have stopped using the white block buffers because I like the grey mylar buffers like the EZ Flow Sand Sharks or Elegant Glass's Gators. They are oil resistant, and can be washed and disinfected and last forever. They also leave absolutely no grit behind and give me a better finish. So you might want to try them. Some distributors carry similar buffers that are smaller with more variations in grits so you will have more to choose from.

Consistency is the key as I am sure you have all heard me say many times before.

Take our suggestions and refine your own system.

DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an 
endorsement of any kind.

Vicki Peters 
"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"
Visit my new web site: http://vickipeters.com 

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