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TIPS OF THE WEEK
by Vicki Peters
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TIP OF THE WEEK #36 Primer Burn
By Vicki Peters
We have all experienced primer burn and there has been some recent chat on
the list lately.
Primer is a dangerous chemical when mis-used and a good chemical when used
properly. It should be used with acrylics only, not gels or fiberglass or
any other enhancement. Primers come in different strengths and are not all
exactly the same, however many appear to be the same and need to be used
cautiously.
Primer is an acid based product that dissolves molecules of residual oils
from the natural nail. Nail primers must be used with caution because some
are very corrosive to the skin and will burn if it gets on the skin. Nail
preparation prior to application of the primers is very important for the
adhesion of the product and if the nails are not prepped and cleaned properly
may cause product breakdown later. Primer works like double-sided sticky
tape, kind of like an anchor for the acrylic. For a simple description -
one side sticks to the nail and the other to the acrylic you apply on top.
When applying primer you should apply it sparingly. When I first purchase a
primer I pop the brush right out of the inside of the cap because I feel the
brush is too big and holds too much primer. I prefer to use a small nail art
brush that I usually cut the tip off of to make it shorter and gives me more
control. After dipping the brush into the primer I dab the brush onto my
table towel to remove any excess primer out of the brush before application.
I also apply the thumbs first because they are the biggest when I have the
most primer in my brush.
Because I believe primer knows north, for the fill, I apply slightly below
the cuticle area allowing it to flow towards the cuticle instead of from the
cuticle down. I also make sure the fingers are bent down a bit as I apply so
the primer runs down not up. For a new nail I apply the primer in the center
and let it flow before I get closer to the cuticle. I also believe that two
coats of primer is enough, more than that your flooding a flood. The nail
can't absorb any more than two coats. And if you have a client that barely
lifts try one coat, a more gentle primer or no primer at all.
Let the primer dry completely. If you work in wet primer I believe that it
can yellow the acrylic because if you apply acrylic in wet primer your
contaminating the acrylic as well as the acrylic application brush,
depositing primer back into your liquid, contaminating it.
Another way of effectively contaminate primer is to continue to use the
original primer bottle for application until it is empty, picking up nail
dust and depositing it into your primer bottle. Now what I want you to do is
pick up your primer bottle and hold it to the light and tell me there is no
nail dust in there! I can see you smiling right now! Get yourself a new
bottle of primer and another empty smaller brown bottle (maybe at the
pharmacy?). Pour in enough for the week. Two things here - if you spill it,
as we have all done, your only spilling a little. By pouring in enough for
the week and using it up your always using fresh primer that will be more
effective that that bottle full of nail dust. (Same thing goes for your
dehydrator bottle as well).
If you apply too much primer it can run up to the cuticle or down the
sidewalls and underneath the natural free edge, causing burning on the skin.
If for any reason a client complains that her fingers are burning it is
because you were sloppy with the primer. Some say baking soda and water will
stop the burning action. I don't have any remedies myself other than being
careful. You can spray the nails with alcohol or water, but you have to
re-prep the nail all over again once you do that. Bottom line is if you're
careful you won't burn the client. I know this first hand and here is why:
When I first started getting my nails done I went to a tech for about a year
before I decided to get my manicuring license. So thinking I knew what I was
doing I ripped my nails off and slapped primer all over all ten of my nails.
Needless to say they burned for almost 24 hours. I never knew primer burned,
because my manicurist never burned me or educated me. Lesson learned.
Another thing you need to know is that for the liquids that call themselves
"primerless" they do not have the primer built into the liquid. They have
other properties that adhere to the nail better and require good prep work to
work. And they don't all work for everyone so if your loosing nails to
lifting you may want to go back to using primer. Primer can be a crutch but
it can also be an asset when used properly. So treat your primer with respect.
DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an
endorsement of any kind.
Vicki Peters
"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"
Visit my new web site: http://vickipeters.com
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