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TIPS OF THE WEEK
by Vicki Peters
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TIP OF THE WEEK #32 SIMPLIFY YOUR FILL SERVICE
By Vicki Peters
There is has a few posts recently about how long services should take that I
want address again with some points about techniques. First here is what I
wrote in a previous Tip Of The Week On timing.
Over the years of teaching and interfacing with techs from all over the
country I have figured out the national average on services - according to
only me me of course. So here is a list of times that may help you set some
goals.
Acrylic Full Set - 1 ½ hours
Fills - 1 hour
Back fills - 1hour & 15 minutes
Basic Pedicure 30 minutes
Regular pedicure 1 hour
Deluxe/Spa pedicure 1 ½ hours
Basic manicure - 30 minutes
Deluxe/Spa manicure - 45 minutes to 1 hour
Gel or Fiberglass full set - 1 hour
Gel or Fiberglass fill - 30 - 45 minutes
What I thought was to take the fill, which is what we do the most in the
salon and break it down and detail the service more for you. Based on a 1
hour fill here is what I do.
Now let me tell you if you're a fairly new tech it is going to take you years
of working to get your fill skill down to an hour if it is taking you longer.
It took me about three years to get my fills done from 1/15 hours to 1 hour.
Then it took me another year or so after I started backfilling to squeeze the
extra work of a back fill down to an hour as well and being happy with the
results. For the first years or so I scheduled an extra 15 minutes. My long
term goal was to get all my services down to 1 hour so no matter what walked
in the door I could get it done. I also learned to schedule tougher clients
an extra 15 minutes. What I mean by tougher clients were the ones that just
took longer and was no one's fault. Just the opposite of the ones who take 45
minutes because they are easier to do for whatever reason. Too bad all
clients could not be created equal - sure would make our jobs easier!
So here is how I dissect my 1 hour fill:
I break my fills up into four 15 minute increments: preparation, apply, shape
and finish. Now remember this is only the way I do it - you need to devise
your own system.
PREPARATION - 15 minutes
1. Wash your hands and have the client scrub her nails with a clean
sanitized nail brush. (Get lunch out from underneath now!).
2. Remove polish - I use pure acetone - contrary to the belief that acetone
melts the acrylics - it does if you leave it on there but for a quick polish
removal where your going to fill or re-buff in a polish change there is no
harm done. Using pure acetone and real cotton will save time. This is also
the time to socialize, look your client in the eye (your head will be done
for the rest of the service) and see what needs to be repaired (by hearing
from the client that she broke a nail - like you can't figure that out!) LOL!
3. Push cuticles back. I use a thin 180 silver board made by Flowery that I
have used for 20 years and for some reason I can't give up! The cuticles
will be soft from washing her hands. My manicurist uses Blue Cross Cuticle
Remover and a metal pusher to push my cuticles back, then cleanses my nails
with alcohol before she files me down. Now for those who know me and my
beliefs my manicurist goes totally against what I believe about wetting the
nails before she fills and cleansing with alcohol. However I have never been
able to go three weeks with absolutely no lifting so this procedure works,
and works well. She is a 19-year veteran and knows what she is doing. But
when you use oil or a cuticle remover at this stage of the service do me a
big favor and clean those nails real well.
4. Now file down the cuticle area so you have no fill lines. I use that 180
Flowery file in tight spots and a100 or 150 for the rest of the nails.
5. Shorten the nails.
6. Go over each nail entirely to take the top surface off that may have
turned a speck yellow if they are pink and whites and re-shape the top, sides
and tip shapes completely. I like to do most of my filing here - making the
application and finish work easier.
7. If your backfilling this is where I cut the new smile lines. I thin the
tips of the nails with an barrel bit and my electric file first then I cut
all the smile lines.
8. Dust with a clean nylon nailbrush. I do not recommend those black fluffy
brushes - they a re not sanitizable and distributes nail dust and oils from
the previous client. If you use anything it must be washable or sanitizable.
9. Apply dehydrator or whatever you use to clean and dehydrate at this point.
10. Apply primer and let dry as you get your liquid and powder out.
APPLY - 15 minutes
11. I like to apply all my whites first, then I throw away the liquid because
it is usually milky and you don't want to use it for the pink. Pour fresh
liquid.
12. Apply the pink or clear powder - sometimes I use a smaller brush,
depending on how much needs to be filled in at the cuticle area.
SHAPE - 15 minutes
13. With my coarsest file - either a 100 or 150 I file and shape all the
nails. I have a system in place so I do the same routine on each nail.
14. Then I repeat the same exact routine with a 180 file.
· If the nails are smooth enough I do this shaping procedure only once with
a 150 file instead of using the 100 and then the 180. Saves me time.
· Check the nails 5 ways - also another tip of the week.
15. Then I buff. Before buffing remove the grit from the previous file - this
will help you graduate your grits better. Otherwise your buffing in the 100,
150 or 180 grit left behind defeating your purpose. I use a mylar grey
buffing file these days (there are tons of varieties out there) because they
hold up well with cuticle oils. White blocks don't and I like a two-sided
one, one with coarser grit than the other and I use the smoother side with
oil. They are also washable and sanitizable and last much longer even though
they are more expensive - in the long run they work about to be about the
same cost.
FINISH - 15 minutes
16. I then high shine buff with a three way or if the nails are smooth enough
I go right to a chamois buffer with buffing cream.
17. Instead of having the client leave my station and wash again, because she
already has, I remove the dust from my hands and hers as well with a towel
and give her a quick hand massage. This giver her a special treatment,
rehydrates my hands as well and saves time because they never go wash and
come straight back do they?
18. I then cleanse her nails with a lint free pad and soap and water I have
in a squeeze bottle or a cleanser.
19. If she prefers polish or a protective topcoat I would apply it now.
If your having trouble getting your time down - assign a time to each
procedure you do and time yourself one procedure at a time until you get your
time down then move on to the next procedure until you have that one down
too. Such as 1 minute to remove polish. Don't just try to work faster - it
does not work - you must have a plan and a system. Devising a working system
is difficult - you have to be organized and have decided what files and
application techniques work the best for you.
Watch the clock too so you know where you need to speed up. And put a clock
somewhere where you can easily see it without having to look up all the time
and give the client the impression your rushing. You may want to just turn
your watch around so it is facing you, as you work.
DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an
endorsement of any kind.
Vicki Peters
"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"
Visit my new web site: http://vickipeters.com
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