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TIPS OF THE WEEK 
by Vicki Peters
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TIP OF THE WEEK #16 GELS
By Vicki Peters

Karen Smith from the UK asked that I do a tip of the week on gels, which was 
prompted by a recent e mail from me on the list about gels. In case you 
didn't realize it I have become a big fan of gels this last year. (I wrote a 
gel workshop a few months ago in Nailpro) As many of you know I have a strong 
background in acrylic, competition nails, pink and whites, backfills and no 
line fills. They are my specialty in teaching. However I feel that the new 
millennium has brought us some great odorless options and with the 
spa-manicuring trend - because smell is becoming less attractive in the nail 
salon. 

I don't think acrylics will never go away and we need them for some clients, 
odorless acrylic is becoming more popular because the new technology has made 
them better and they stay down better and are more color stable. But gels are 
the thing as far as I am concerned. They are easy to use, do not lift - 
trust me -they don't and they can be applied in pink and white to look like 
an acrylic. They don't smell, take less time and the finish is almost 
indestructible. 

But the obstacle is you. I know this because I have been called an acrylic 
snob from one of the editors of Nailpro - if you can imagine! And I am not 
and never have been. I always try new products just so I know about them, 
even if I go back to the acrylic. When gels first came out 15 years ago 
they were not good because the technology was not there and the manufactures 
released them before they were perfected. Most of us that remember that 
never forgot and have not given the new generation of gels a chance because 
we have long memories. 

So here is your homework assignment. Try a gel. But there are a few things I 
must tell you first.
1. They can be pricey when purchasing the whole unit, light included.
2. If you already own a light make sure the wattage is correct with the gel 
product you plan to use. The wrong wattage will not cure the gel properly 
and you will think it is not good and that is not fair to the gel product.
3. Choose a line that will sample you inexpensively. Here are a few 
suggestions and you can find their numbers in the Nailpro Gold Book. And when 
you call them please tell them I made the recommendation. I will be very 
appreciative. Many of these companies support me on the nail cruise and other 
classes with free samples I give out and your telling them I suggested they 
call makes it all worth the effort on both of out parts. 
Light Concepts 
Light Elegance 
NSI - Light Fantastic
OPI Microbond
Star
Christrio
Ego
4. Look to see how many components are in each system. Some are 
1-componenet and the others have builders, base gels, fill-in gels and 
finishing gels, each with it's own purpose.
5. Look for colors - pink, white and clear.
6. Try the different brushes, some are synthetic pointed brushes and others 
small square ones, I like them both. Depends on what works for you and how 
easy the gels are to apply. The pointed brush allows more bend ability where 
as the square one does not and you may be too heavy handed with the square on 
and wipe the gel right off in application. So try both.
7. Get over the fact that the builder gel does not self level. This was the 
hardest part for me and until I learned this and I tend not to use the 
builder gels because of that. I got over it though and you will too. They 
have a purpose. Apply the builder gel and cook it, then apply the next step 
which is a self leveler gel that will fill in all the dips and valleys - and 
you will have them - believe me.
8. THERE IS NO LAW THAT SAYS YOU CAN'T FILE GELS! I don't care what the 
manufacturer says - even the best of us need to file once in a awhile. I 
file after the leveler gel is applied over the builder. I file the entire 
nail into perfect shape so the next layer and finisher gel don't need to be 
filed. I think it only makes sense.
9. File the fills too. Re-shape and reapply.
10. GET OUT OF THE MIND SET OF ACRYLICS WHE YOU APPLY GELS. This is by far 
the biggest rejection factor when a tech who is used to acrylic crosses over 
to gels. You cannot pat or press the gel, you have to let it work for you. 
The touch is much lighter and the brush smaller. Let it self-level without 
touching it if you can and stay away from the cuticle and sidewalls as much 
as you can while still supply support there. The whole idea here is ease and 
letting the gel work for you. I know it is a hard habit to break but once you 
get it down you will love the gels like I do. 
11. Building a smile line is done differently as well. Apply the white gel 
and let it self-level. With a clean brush - probably a pointed one wiped in 
cleanser, wipe your smile line and cook it immediately. Then finish the 
nails with pink or clear. Make sure if your using the pink gel do not pull 
it over the white tip gel you just applied. And you can use pink you can 
finish them with a total overlay of clear to fill in the arch area without 
messing with the pink and white. 
12. Gels can be backfilled just like an acrylic. However you do not want to 
be too aggressive with the electric file and if you choose to file the tips 
down remember gels file easier than acrylic so there is not that much work to 
it.
13. Gels are perfect for the natural nail repair. We all know that if we 
patch a natural nail with acrylic it is a never-ending thing and we tend to 
damage the natural nail. Why not patch the nail with gels and let them grow 
off damage free instead? What about that one nail that splits down the 
center of a natural nail manicure - gels are perfect for that. 
14. Place a strip of fiberglass in the gel and cook it for more strength. 
15. Make sure you build the nails thick enough - we think gels need to be 
paper-thin and they are flexible, they are but I have found I have much 
better success with a thicker (no thicker that acrylic on the tips) 
application and they work much better for me. If they are too thin I chip 
them constantly, so if you're having the problem, thicken them up.
16. Balding. This is because you did not apply enough product or the wattage 
of the lamp is incorrect. A good application will not bald.
17. Curing is not producing a shiny finish. When this happens it is because 
the cure is not enough and probably the wrong lamp is being used.
18. There are a few gel products that can be used as finishing products over 
acrylics. Try them to start with. There is nothing more beautiful than a 
pink and white acrylic with a gel over the top - it gives the nails such 
dimension and a scratch free finish. 
19. The last tip on gel I will give you is if you top coat and undercoat your 
own acrylic nails you will not melt them while taking polish off - gels are 
acetone resistant. 

Dawn McCormick, yes Janet's daughter put a set of gels on me at Christmas 
(they spent the holiday with me) I have been wearing them since and my 
natural nails have never looked better. She has taken her acrylic clientele 
and changed them completely over to gels. She can do a gel fill in 30 minutes 
now instead of one hour, has taken on more clients and has doubled her 
income. She is around less dust and less smell, the fills are easier because 
of less filing and no lifting and she feels better at the end of the day not 
working with acrylics.

DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an 
endorsement of any kind.

Vicki Peters 
"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"
Visit my new web site: http://vickipeters.com 

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