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TIPS OF THE WEEK
by Vicki Peters
Back
NAIL TIP OF THE WEEK: #1 BACKFILLS
This nail tip is lengthy - sorry - some will not be a so long.
You may want to print this out and read or keep.
I have a book called "Drilltalk" that tells more about bits and backfilling
techniques that you can order for $25 if anyone is interested. Check out my
web site for more info on my books. There are tons of photos so you can see
what I am talking about.
- Vicki
DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an
endorsement of any kind.
BACKFILLS
There are really five basic ways to backfill using a variety of bits and
files.
By hand
This can be tedious but can be done. Using a course file you must thin out
all the product from the stress/smile line area. If you view the nail from
the side it should angle down without a ridge. You will apply the white tip
powder to replace the smile line and white just as you would a new sculptured
or tip and overlay nail.
This is not as difficult as it seems. Some acrylic products are softer than
others and this technique comes quickly. Use a 100 grit file when filing down
or you will be there all day!
With a backfill carbide small bit
Backfills bits come is different sizes, a one week, two week and a half
barrel. All perform the same thing - it is preference only on which one you
use. You can also use a diamond backfill bit but it is not as aggressive as
carbide but may be good to practice with. Negative is if your working with a
small bit you must change bits to remove the remainder of the old white tip
product. This can take extra time.
With a full barrel bit
The full barrel has it benefits. One is to do the cutting and the other is
that you do not have to change the bit to remove the remainder of the old
white product once you have made the cut. The negative is that you're
working with a larger full bit than a smaller backfill bit and you cannot see
what your doing well. Again it's just preference.
With a soft rounded edged carbide tapered barrel bit
This soft rounded edge carbide bit allows you to remove the product from the
tip to the smile line area by holding the bit flat to the nail. Again you
will replace the white tip product as you would when you hand file.
The French fill bit
Lysa Comfort from EZ Flow developed this bit and knows how to use it better
than I. It is a diamond shaped diamond bit that trenches out the perfect "v"
for backfills. It is made from the finest diamond products and has a perfect
cutting edge. It is large and aggressive but gives you the smoothest cuts
of all. Smaller versions are made by other companies, however they are not
as precise in their cutting quality.
STEP 1
Prep the nails as you would for a fill. Do all the procedures up to applying
the dehydrator and primer. Dust the nails.
STEP 2
With your preferred bit cut the smile line. I usually start on the right side
and work toward the left side as I view the nail. Hold the sharp edged side
of the bit at a 45% angle as you cut in. I line to make three cuts, one on
the side to the center, across the center, then the third from the center to
the left side.
Hold the finger your working on steady. I usually balance my left ring finger
against the finger so I have more control. I am right handed. Move and rock
the finger you are working on, as you go, so your not doing all the work
with your right hand, assuming your right handed of course.
Be sure to balance your right hand on your left as you work to be more in
control. By not balancing your hand all the pressure is on the bit. Balancing
on the fulcrum finger takes the pressure off the bit - producing negative
pressure and giving you more Control. Hold the handpiece like a pencil when
you work.
STEP 3
Remove the backfill bit and replace with a barrel. Holding the nail sideways
so you can see the ledge you will remove the remaining tip product.
OPTIONAL STEP
Instead of cutting the smile line out first in the thick acrylic thin it out
first, then cut the smile line out - it is much easier.
STEP 4
If you cut down to the natural nail's free edge and expose it be sure to
prime the exposed natural nail when priming. Remove as much product as you
can but do not re-prime acrylic - it will turn it yellow.
If your precise enough when cutting the smile line with your bit - you will
create a perfect wall to apply the product up against and not have to wipe
the smile line. It will be a guide to apply against.
APPLYING THE WHITE TIP POWDER
After you have primed the nails and your ready to re-apply the white powder,
pour enough liquid to do all ten tips. Apply 1 medium to dry ball of product
to the tip. Wipe your brush to get any product out of it and bring your
brush back to a perfect point. You may need to re-dip but wipe the liquid
out. While your doing this, the product has spread out a bit and started to
set. Press the product up against the "wall" of the smile line and push the
product up into the corners then with your brush and without wiping the
product out (you need a real light touch) pull the product down to the tip.
Here are your goals:
Apply the 1 ball of white with the perfect liquid to powder ratio so it does
not run or is too dry. This takes practice and is not an exact science so I
am not going to tell you it is a 2-1 or 1-1 ratio - it is different for all
of us because we are all using different products and brushes. The goal here
is to get the consistency so you can apply in 1 ball with "control"
Build the white tall enough to meet the pink so when you apply the pink you
do not have to pull it over the white and mute it.
Do all ten whites first and let them dry for four reasons:
Your more focused on 1 thing at a time
You're allowing the white to dry so when you apply the pink you don't smoosh
the white.
Your not using milky liquid to apply the pink. I said earlier to pour only
enough liquid into the dappan dish to do the white tips, throw it out and
pour fresh liquid for the pink - it will keep the pink clearer looking.
Your working within a system which will save time.
I am not saying you should do this my way - but you need to devise a
consistent system of working. This will save you time, the client will know
what is next and work with you - instead of against you.
SUGGESTED BITS FOR BACKFILLS:
Medicool ½ barrel carbide backfill bit - 800/433-2469
Kupa's Tornado - new very sharp carbide - 800/994-5872
Aspetico's silver carbide soft tipped tapered barrel bit - 800/426-5913
EZ Flows French Fill Bit - 800/552-1477
GENERAL COMMENTS:
When you first start to do backfills it should only take 15 extra minutes so
schedule accordingly. Over time you should be able to shorten your time back
down to the time scheduled for a regular fill. This took me about six
months when I first started doing backfills 15 years ago. My goal was to get
good enough so no matter what I faced with a client I could get it done in an
hour.
I started practicing by doing one backfill nail per client - back then I was
polishing them all and needed the practice and they didn't care. It also was
a good selling point that when I got good enough they too could have pink and
white nails and understood how they were fixed when grown out.
Another way to practice is to glue a nail to a wooden dowel and cover with
acrylic. Practice cutting new smile lines until you have no more room and
break the tip off and glue on another.
Vicki Peters
"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"
Visit my new web site: http:// vickipeters.com
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