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*** Video link : faster rebalancing, reverse technique
#1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFBZQ9J9Ng8

We created this video to show the Kudos gel and acrylic being used in the "Combined Technique" to create French nails. This technique allows Viktoria Prihodko (Global Educator, Iryna Giblett Nail Academy, Estonia) to rebalance and correct a set of nails in 45 minutes.

The video also shows the Reverse Technique used to produce very sharp smile lines and Viktoria's filing method which she has developed to reduce her service time.

Notice also the use of the 3-in-1 pincher to obtain a good c-curve. The nail lis pinched after curing for 15 seconds and then the nail is cured for the full two minutes. 50% c-curves with gel are easily achievable using this method and the Kudos gel (may be possible with other manufacturers, we didn't try). Good c-curve and apex add strength and elegance to the nail as you know.

Although Viktoria uses blue acrylic to make the free edge in this example, you can make with standard white or other colors with glitter if required.

Hope you find this useful ;-)

Bob
Iryna Giblett Nail Products Inc., Sweden
http://www.irynagiblett.com
 Reply
#2
Hi Bob, thanks for posting the video. I am wondering how this technique is faster than just using acrylic for both the nail bed and the free edge? It seems to me that the curing would add more time, not less? What am I missing? The finished nail looks beautiful of course, but I have seen the same technique used on the Young Nails video - all acrylic - with the same result.
Laura Merzetti
http://www.scratchmyback.ca
CND Education Ambassador
Toronto, Ontario Canada
 Reply
#3
Thank you Bob for posting this link up.

That is a lovely looking nail and I love the blue, it is so crisp and bright.

The filing style is very similar to my own so this was good to see.

It would have been lovely to see the entire set finished, they would have looked awesome!!

I love the way the 2 different pinks were used for the nail bed, this gave a lovely finish that looked quite natural V's a one pink opaque nail bed look.

I also checked out the other video of all the images from 2008-09 and OMG! There are some absolutely gorgeous sets on there.

Well done Viktoria, you really know your stuff and I enjoyed watching itSmile

Thank you againSmile
 Reply
#4
Hey Laura, I'm sorry that I have not been clear about the difference and why this method is faster. As I am not a tech, I've had to pester Iryna to explain the difference to me and what I've now done is listed the steps to make a correction using gel only and then the steps for this technique. In both cases, Iryna and Viktoria have estimated the times to make each step.

===========================

Comparative Times of Both Techniques


Standard gel correction technique

  • 1. File and prepare the nails (10-15 minutes)
    2. Apply Clear Sculptor gel on all nails on one hand. Cure for 2 minutes. While curing start to apply Clear on other hand. (4 minutes first hand + 2 minutes second hand = 6 minutes). Can reduce to 4 minutes if have lamp for 2 hands.
    3. Apply Cover Pink on first nail, and make nail bed extension, cure for 5 seconds to fix smile line. Cure complete hand for 35 seconds. Repeat for other hand. (10 seconds to gel first nail plus 2 minutes curing time).
    4. Apply Snow White or Competition White gel to free edge, one finger at time. (10 seconds to apply first finger gel plus 2 minutes cure time per nail. Total 20 minutes 10 seconds). One finger at a time to get a perfect smile line. Can save time by applying gel to more than one finger and curing multiple fingers but customer/tech can damage uncured free edges easily.
    5. Apply Clear Sculpting gel to build the nail shape (including apex). Make one finger at a time and cure for 2 minutes each nail. (2 minutes to apply first gel plus 10 cure times = 22 minutes). Compared to the method below, much more gel is applied and it takes longer. Also this increases the final filing time.
    6. Wipe dispersion layer, file nails, apply cuticle oil (20 minutes).
Total time approximately 88 to 93 minutes.



Combined gel and acrylic correction technique
  • 1. Same as point 1 above (10-15 minutes)
    2. Same as point 2 above (6 minutes)
    3. Same as point 3 above (2 minutes 10 seconds)
    4. Apply Clear Sculptor or Natural Pink gel to build apex and wipe smile line. Do 5 nails at a time and cure for 2 minutes. Repeat other hand. (40 seconds to apply gel to first hand + 4 cure time = 4 minutes 40 seconds).
    5. Apply acrylic to make free edge on all ten nails. (5 minutes)
    6. File, apply top gel and cure for 2 minutes (2 hands), apply cuticle oil. (10 minutes).

Total time 38 to 43 minutes.

We telephoned Viktoria this morning to check the steps and approximate times, only to be told she had just completed the first service of the day, a gel correction in 37 minutes.

Final Comments
Step 2 in the Combined method can be eliminated. But Viktoria prefers to keep this as it is easier to wipe the smile lines. This would mean you are applying the acrylic directly on the form and that it's only adhesion point will be the smile line connection to the gel (as there is now no Clear gel under to support it). Viktoria has tested this and the acrylic free edge does not fall off.

Mixing gel and acrylic on the same nail is not new, nail artists do this all the time. So the reliability and strength of the nail should not be affected. This is in fact what Viktoria has found - after using this method for 2 months she gets very little product lifting after 4 weeks and the condition of the nails is so good that the amount of work to prepare for the correction is minimal. This is the same as if making only gel nails with our product.

Please remember we are talking about corrections. We are not discussing that it is faster to make acrylic nails or do acrylic corrections. We are simply showing a technique that does reduce gel correction service times.

Viktoria is highly skilled in both acrylic and gel, and not everyone will manage to make a service in 37 minutes and produce nails of the highest standard in that time (correct shape, credit card thickness free edge, all 10 nails consistent). However, with practice and using this technique, it is possible to reduce times and perhaps in the future will also makes corrections as fast.

Hope this is now a bit more clear ;-)

Bob
Iryna Giblett Nail Products Inc., Sweden
http://www.irynagiblett.com
 Reply
#5
Hi Bob, thanks for coming back and posting the steps Smile I just want to clarify, when you say 'correction' you are talking about an extended nail bed? Is that right? I'm a little confused on that term in the context you're using it. At first I thought you were talking about a rebalance but from the steps these are a new set of nails.

The one thing that stuck out in the first set of instructions was curing each free edge for 2 minutes, on individual nails (step 4). You can freeze the gel on each finger, and then go onto the next one. Then if you had to, you could cure all 5 for 2 minutes. Same thing for Step 5. I don't think you need to cure each one individually - I can see how that would add up if you did it that way.

Regardless, the second version IS much shorter, isn't it. When it comes time to rebalance the set, what are her steps? Especially with the free edge. Sorry....more questions :wink:
Laura Merzetti
http://www.scratchmyback.ca
CND Education Ambassador
Toronto, Ontario Canada
 Reply
#6
Thanks for posting this Bob. I really enjoyed watching the video and reading all the questions and answers.
 Reply
#7
Thanks Bob for coming back in and explaining all thatSmile

I have been wanting to see a cover gel video for so long and you have granted my wish, so thank you.
I wanted to see if my technique was the same or similar to others but just couldn't find any videos.

I can see where this technique really saves time, so I am going to change my own technique and give this a shot and see how I go.

I'm not into blues but I will say that the blue used on this nail is lovelySmile

Did I mention that it would be GREAT to see a video with the full set being done :wink:
 Reply
#8
Hi Bob!

I agree with everyone that this is a great video, and Viktoriya has excellent technique.

But, as Laura mentioned, how does this technique apply to maintaining nails?

Jesse
 Reply
#9
the nail is beautiful. I am just wondering I am seeing things or is she using a lot of product? That's the only thing I don't like about gel costs a little more.
Licensed Cosmetologist
Practicing Nail Tech
[email protected]
A user of T.E.N. Gel and Young Nail Acrylic.
 Reply
#10
The filing style is very much like the Tammy Taylor "horseshoe" method.
Always be kind....you get farther.
 Reply
#11
Hi Guys,

I will answer the questions in reverse order ;-)

No, she's not using a lot of product. Everything Viktoria does is optimum. Too much product would mean too much filing, more time and extra material cost. Gel does cost a little more, but then again many European customers prefer this and so do the nail techs as it differentiates them from low cost salons. We calculated to create a set of French with sculpted free edge, the material cost in Europe for our gel products is around 2.25 Euro or approx 3% of the service price. Making the same nail with our acrylic costs approx. 2.00 Euro. Bear in mind too that in the US the gel and acrylic prices are less. In any case, 3% is hardly anything to worry about.

This technique is about maintaining nails (infill and rebalance). Although the video shows new nail being made, that's because we had to use Iryna as a model because the person was to do it was late and we couldn't wait (we only had 5 hours in Estonia to record 4 videos). Iryna's been wearing our Gellini gel polish all summer (toes too), so we had to show the infill technique on a new nail. Sorry that this confused you.

I have two more cover gel video's coming up. See more at the end of this post ;-)

When I say correction I meant what you guys call and infill and rebalance I believe. In Swedish and Russian they say correction and rebalancing. Sorry for the confusion. This example does not extend the nail bed. Cover gel was used but this is often used not only to extend the nail bed, but also to hide imperfections in the natural nail bed. Iryna's nails are very good, but it's a tutorial and to our mind not enough people use cover gel or cover acrylic.

In step 4 of Standard gel correction list above, it's correct that one finger is done at a time which adds to the overall cure time. While it is of course possible to apply gel to 5 nails and cure the whole hand, it then won't be possible to get a good c-curve (if someone know otherwise I'd love to know the technique ;-)). To get a good c-curve with gel you have to pinch during the cure. If the other 4 nails are not cured, it would be easy to damage them. Some people may be able to get away with doing two fingers, but in a tutorial we must show the recommended and most reliable method.

Thanks for all your questions and interest!

Bob

======

As I mentioned above, we recorded 4 videos:

1. Kudos Gel and acrylic french nail
2. Creating a new French nail using only gel ==>> new! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwN_PRMmiUM
3. Creating a new French nail with extended nail bed, using gel
4. Applying Gellini gel polish and making Gellini nail art on the toes

In the hand photo's below (note Viktoria couldn't resists doing a bit of nail art at the end!):

Thumb / middle / pink finger: infill technique using gel and acrylic free edge
Ring finger: new French using Kudos Snow White gel on free edge
Index finger: new French with nail bed extension, using Kudos Competition White gel on free edge

[Image: 20110808_Viktoria_French_2_600w.jpg]

[Image: 20110808_Viktoria_French_600w.jpg]

[Image: 20110808_Viktoria_Gellini_nail_art_600w.jpg]
Iryna Giblett Nail Products Inc., Sweden
http://www.irynagiblett.com
 Reply
#12
Thank you Bob, now this makes sense Smile Thanks for posting everything, it's been great to read, and the pictures are gorgeous.
Laura Merzetti
http://www.scratchmyback.ca
CND Education Ambassador
Toronto, Ontario Canada
 Reply
#13
Wow!! Love the pics Bob!
The art work is beautiful, Viktoria does a great job that's for sureSmile

Love the new video too, thank you.

Can't wait to see the other 2 videos.

Keep up the fantastic work you all do, your clients are lucky to have such a talented nail tech.
 Reply
#14
Bob....what's happened???

The new video's will not play anymore. It keeps coming up that it is set to private and I can't view it.
 Reply
#15
I can't view it either
 Reply
#16
I wanted to bump up this thread, because the videos in it are awesome!
 Reply
#17
Thanks Jesse! Here is a link to our video page on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/irynagiblett

We are bringing together our most talented educators this week to record more video's. I will let you know when these are put on YouTube ;-)

Bob
Iryna Giblett Nail Products Inc., Sweden
http://www.irynagiblett.com
 Reply
#18
Thanks Bob, but these videos are still unlisted, don't know if you realized that. But yes, I love your channel. I'm pretty sure I subscribed but I'll make sure Smile

 Reply

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